At Hemingway we spend a lot of time stressing the importance of the fit of your suit. A well fitted suit is sure to have you looking your very best, however a cheap poorly made suit can leave you looking worse for wear. That’s why we’ve looked at the tell-tale signs which not only point towards a substandard suit but things you should certainly avoid


If you’re looking for a suit for a special occasion and come across sizes which are labelled as small, medium and large then you’re very much looking in all of the wrong places. Suits should never be sized like this and will undoubtedly lead to them not fitting properly in more places than one. We’re all built differently so when suits are designed in very few sizes with little room to alter them, it is clear that they aren’t designed with the customer who values the fit of the suit in mind.


With the cloth of the suit being one of the biggest costs, what you’re likely to find with cheaper suits is that in many cases very little extra material is left to allow for alterations. A great place to check is the hem on the trousers – simply turning the bottom of the trouser leg inside out should reveal how much excess material has been left. A decent suit should ideally have around 2 inches worth of fabric remaining. In addition to this the waist and seat of your trousers should also have excess material to allow for them to be tailored appropriately to provide you the perfect fit.

Lapel roll

While sharp lines and clean folds usually represent an immaculate look when it comes to your outfit, the lapels are one thing that shouldn’t look as if they’ve been ironed down the jacket. They should in fact curve naturally towards the button and this is one sign that can further distinguish a well-made suit to a cheaper one.


As mentioned before a cheap suit is likely to fit poorly and another area which this is usually visible is the armpits. If they sag too low and create almost a webbed effect when the arms are raised then chances the suit is cheap and not very well constructed. With a quality tailored suit you’ll find that the armpits are tucked away higher while still allowing the wearer to comfortably manoeuvre in the blazer.


The shoulders on a suit should sit clean without any bulk or misshape taking place. Many cheaper suits often bulge along the shoulder, misrepresenting your figure and offering anything but a sharp look which is so often associated with dressing in a suit.

The best way to avoid all of these issues is to simply opt for a made to measure or bespoke tailor made suit. At Hemingway we ensure your finished suit is fitted perfectly for your body. Get in touch today to see how we can help regardless of the occasion.

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