Bespoke tailoring is considered the epitome of fine clothing, and with good reason. The very nature of truly bespoke garments means that they are created to best fit you and provide you with the final look you desire, and if tailored correctly can help to flatter most figures.
We’re constantly coming across stories of men waiting to lose weight before investing in a suit, or feeling they have to lose weight in order to look good, however this couldn’t be further from the truth. While we’re all for encouraging a healthy way of life, you shouldn’t feel the need to make changes to your body to feel good about yourself in your clothes. This is where the real beauty of bespoke lies, as you don’t need the body of a model to pull off a sharp suited look.
We’ve delved into the 3 key aspects you should consider to help ensure your bespoke suit streamlines your figure and creates a look you’ll love. Remember, each element will play its part so it’s important to not overlook anything.
There’s one tip we always offer to men who are slightly larger than average, “don’t try to hide your physique by wearing larger clothes”, and the same principle applies to your tailored garments. Having a suit that fits you just right will look far better than something that hangs off you, which in many cases will actually make you look larger than you are.
While an experienced tailor can help to ensure you are measured and fitted appropriately in terms of the width of your jacket and trousers, it’s also important to keep in mind the length of the sleeves and legs. The unwritten rule is to have your suit jacket come to your wrist and allow for an inch or so of your shirt so show from underneath. However, some men prefer slightly longer sleeves but if you are broader than most then be sure to specify that you don’t want longer sleeves as it’ll only make your arms look short.
In similar fashion, allow for a medium break on your trousers so they rest comfortable on your shoes. It’s important to get this right as your trouser length can really play a huge part in how your look turns out. Have them puddling over your feet and they’ll make you look short, however if they aren’t long enough then you’ll look like you’ve outgrown them.
Most often the fit of a bespoke suit will help to ensure it looks just right on your body, however there are small alterations that can make a big difference in the way the final suit looks. This is where the style of the suit comes into play.
Slim fitting suits have proven to be a popular choice for most men over the past few years, however if you don’t have a slim physique is it still a style you should opt for? Well maybe not completely, but we’d suggest having the suit jacket sleeves slimmed down and the trouser legs tapered. This doesn’t have to be done to the extent where it’s hugging your body, however bringing them in a little will help streamline your complete outfit.
In addition to this, if you have the freedom to choose the make up of the suit, we’d recommend going for a 3-piece suit as it can help to clean up the transition from the stomach and waist to your lower half. Saying that, this doesn’t mean a 2-piece suit should be completely overlooked.
There are a number of aspect of the cloth that should be taken into consideration. To begin with you don’t want anything that’s too thick. This will add unnecessary width to your body whereas a lighter fabric will reduce this and also flow a lot better. Secondly, you need to consider the colour of the fabric. As you’ve probably heard more than a few times, darker colours can appear to be slimming, and in the world of suits this can play right into your hands since dark suits are often the preferred choice of colour. You have the freedom to choose between a slick suit in either black, navy or even a dark grey, all of which can be teamed up with a range of brighter accessories if you do want to add a pop of colour to your look.
Finally, the pattern of the fabric also needs to be addressed. Sticking to simple fabrics will help to create a minimal yet elegant look. If you do want something with a pattern however then we recommend you opt for either a pinstripe or herringbone. The vertical nature of the patterns can help to give the impression of elongating your figure and slimming you down.
Knowing what can impact the look of your suit is priceless. While your tailor will have all the skills to create the suit, providing a few suggestions on the finer details of the suit can help ensure it’s made perfectly to suit you.