A Gentleman's Guide to Winter Suits

22 February 2019

When the cold weather strikes, it is wise that a gentleman has an appropriate suit stored in his wardrobe that will keep him warm whilst looking professional and stylish.

Although winter often means dark colours when it comes to fashion, you don’t have to be boring with your suit and believe it or not, you can actually be creative with your look.

There are three important aspects to look at when choosing the ideal winter suit; the fabric, the colour and the accessories, and choosing the right combination will give you your perfect look.

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1. Fabrics

Wool

Wool is the most popular suit fabric and is renowned for its ability to drape nicely and maintain its form. There are several types of wool suit available, with worsted wool being the most popular wool used for suits. Worsted wool is highly adaptable to temperature change, meaning it can be worn at any time of year. It also wears extremely well and can still give off a slight shine that you find with most suits. All suit fabrics weigh differently, and worsted wool is considered mid-weight meaning it is a great option for those cold and crisp days.

Tweed

Tweed suits are typically made from wool and created by combining three differently coloured yarns which are twilled. Twilling consists of weaving a yarn and producing a unique pattern made up of different colours. Tweed is often thick and can keep you warm whilst being water resistant and durable. The fabric is quite coarse and is slightly heavier compared to other fabrics, however it is a great option if you’re wanting to make a classic statement.

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Herringbone 

Another heavy, warm and durable suit option, herringbone has a distinctive zig-zag pattern which is easily identifiable. Made from twilled yarn, similar to tweed, herringbone fabrics consist of a tighter weave for a more structured and durable suit. The thickness of the suit is paired with the subtle zig-zag design which gives off the illusion of depth making this type of suit ideal for gentlemen with a slim build.

Flannel

Today, flannel is reinventing itself as a suit fabric for bold, stylish and modern men. Made from worsted wool, flannel is similar to tweed and herringbone in terms of looks but is much softer to touch. Flannel suits can be fairly heavy and quite hard to find whilst being expensive, however they can put across that the gentleman wearing it is stylish who can adapt his look to match the upcoming seasons. Flannel suits are best suited for when in the office or attending a business meeting, so avoid wearing one when attending a special occasion or to an event with strict dress codes.

Cashmere

The most luxurious and coveted suit fabric available known for its softness, comfort and warmth is cashmere. Although cashmere suits can be quite expensive and are quite hard to come by, they look fantastic when worn on any gentleman. If you’re thinking of investing in a cashmere suit but don’t want to break the bank, opt for a wool or polyester blend as these are reasonably priced. With cashmere suits, it is also important to ensure that you store your suit correctly as this material can attract moths leading to chewed holes in your suit. To avoid this from happening, protect your suit with a cedar closet or mothballs.

2. Colours

Burgundy

Deep burgundy is a colour which is becoming more popular every day. The ideal colour for if you’re wanting to go for something that isn’t black, grey or even navy, an oxblood burgundy suit will easily grab people’s attention when you walk into a room whilst maintaining its formal essence. Bold but subtly bold is burgundy.

Cognac

Brown is always on trend for the winter months and cognac serves as the ideal shade for those cold days. Cognac is a rich caramel or toffee colour with a slight red hue and is ideal for the modern gentleman who wants to make a statement with his suit. Bringing across a warm presence, cognac is the perfect colour for attending those business meetings when you’re out and about.

Green

Similar to burgundy, green is another great colour for if you’re after something different to black, grey or navy. Again, green isn’t too ‘in your face’ yet still manages to inject some colour into your look and provides the ideal shade for autumn and winter with its warm and rich tones.

Plum

If you’re feeling brave, opt for a plum coloured suit as this will really give you edge and make you stand out from the crowd. Plum is quite a bold colour so be confident when wearing it and wear it with pride - you’ll definitely nail it.

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3. Accessories

Accessories are the perfect way to jazz up your winter suit look if you want to add a little extra something. Choose winter accessories such as a knit tie or a scarf and choose these in a colour which will either complement dark hues or contrast bright patterns for a real impact. Mixing up different textures and patterns is also a great way to add dimension to your look.

If you’re sticking with simple accessories go for either a tie, pocket square or even a shirt that is either patterned or made from a different material than you would usually wear. Experimenting with different colours and textures is a great way to add style and creativeness to your look, so don’t be scared to try something different and have fun with your look.

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Written by your team of experts at Hemingway Tailors
Written by your team of experts at Hemingway Tailors
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