5 Tailoring Tips for Bigger Men

15 May 2019

A suit can make every gentleman look the part and feel his best when attending formal events and if you get it right, you’ve nailed formal attire.

Visiting a tailor like ourselves at Hemingway can help you get the perfect look and ensures that your suit fits in all the right places. However, for men who are slightly bigger or broader than the average man, this may seem difficult.

Hemingway is happy to provide tailoring help and assistance to any gentleman, but for bigger men in particular who require a little guidance, we’ve put together five tailoring tips that will give you all the answers when it comes to purchasing the right suit for your body shape…

1. The fit should enhance your shape

With any suit, getting the fit right is essential and if you’re broader-shaped, it’s even more important to ensure your suit fits perfect. Your suit shouldn’t be too big, which will make you look bigger than what you are and shouldn’t be too tight, which will look unflattering for your particular shape. Don’t be afraid to consider different fits as well - whether you’re considering skinny fit, regular and so on, it is completely your decision based on your personal preferences, taste and what you feel most comfortable in. However, no matter what fit you decide to go for, opt for a suit that fits you in all the important places, such as the shoulders, arms, legs and the torso. Once you’ve got this and you feel comfortable in your suit, then you’ve found the perfect fit.

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2. Focus on the details

Once you’ve got the fit, it’s time to concentrate on the details. When it comes to the suit jacket, try and look for one that has a lower break. This should be where your lapel meets your first button and if this is lower, it should sit in line with the waist if your torso is slightly longer. As well as this, go for a lapel which is mid-width so that it is in proportion with the width of your jacket. This should also apply to the tie so that it’s in scale with the amount of fabric on show. Also if you can, opt for a jacket with slanted pockets as these will make the torso look slimmer.

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3. Get the shirt right

When you’re looking for the right shirt, you simply can’t go wrong with a plain white shirt. However, grey and pale blue shirts have also become popular recently, so don’t be afraid to go for something with a little colour if you’d rather stay away from white. Make sure your shirt is long enough to tuck into your trousers but also make sure that it doesn’t keep slipping out. One of the things which is often ignored is the shirt collar. Avoid extra large collars as this can come off as a bit of a novelty and ensure that the outside edge of the collar is slightly longer so that overall, the collar is in proportion to a larger chest.

4. Pay attention to the trousers

Suit trousers are probably the most difficult to get right and they must fit correctly first and foremost. If you’re tall, you must always consider the length of the trousers - opt for a long trouser length or have your tailor let down the hems a little. If you’re quite short, make sure your trousers aren’t too long and if they are, consider a shorter length or have your tailor take up the bottoms slightly. You’ll know if your suit trousers are the right length because they should end just above your socks so that you can just see the ankle. As tempting as it might be, don’t overfill your pockets - try and avoid putting your phone, wallet or anything else that may be large-shaped in your trouser pockets as this will ruin the lines of the suit and your silhouette. Not only this, but it will also ruin the formal look that you’re after and as soon as anything is out of place, it can have a huge effect on your overall appearance.

5. Consider subtle colour and patterns 

The saying is that black makes you look slimmer, however, if you’re a bigger gentleman, you shouldn’t be afraid to experiment with colour and patterns. Don’t go for gaudy or loud prints or patterns as this can be heavy on the eye - make sure that the patterns are fairly neutral in colour and are subtle. Patterns such as checks or stripes, for example, are ideal if you’re a little skeptical about injecting some colour and pattern into your look as you can easily work these patterns into your everyday look. However, opt for finer stripes rather than large ones as this can give off a more clean and crisp look. All in all, the main thing to remember with colour and patterns is ‘keep it simple’.
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Written by your team of experts at Hemingway Tailors
Written by your team of experts at Hemingway Tailors
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