5 suit mistakes you’re probably making

28 July 2017
5 suit mistakes you’re probably making
From every day suit wearers, to those that only wear them for a special occasion, there’s no end to the number of people we often see making the same suiting mistakes over again. Now that’s probably got you thinking, “what mistakes?” … Well if you’ve started questioning whether you’re one of these people then fear not, we’ve addressed some of the commonly made suiting mistakes and also looked at how to avoid them in future.

Suit jacket sleeve length

The length of the sleeves on your suit jacket will play a large role in how you look as it can easily make a suit look too big or too small. Your jacket sleeve should sit on your wrist and should allow for around half an inch or so of your shirt to creep out from underneath.

If your jacket sleeve is too long then you’ll find your hands drowned by it, whereas if it’s too short you’ll be left looking like you’ve kept your blazer since high school.

Button closure

Buttons, you spend your whole fastening them but it’s only once you’ve matured into an adult do you suddenly start getting it all wrong! That’s because not all of the buttons on your suit jacket should be closed. The rule of thumb is to always leave the bottom button open, unless you’re wearing a jacket with one button, in which case is should be closed!

In addition to this, when seated the jacket should be left open. This is beneficial not only from an aesthetic perspective, but also for practical reasons. Undoing the buttons will help the jacket rest beside you as opposed to gathering on your abdomen. Also, if you’re wearing a well-tailored jacket then sitting down can in some cases place a little strain on the buttons.

Pocket and jacket vent stitching

Many of us have been there, you’ve bought a new suit and you’re wearing it for the first time, but you’ve forgotten to remove the stitching on the vents or the pockets! Now cue the awkward moment your partner, friend, or worse yet some other guest has to remind you that it still needs cutting.

If you’re planning on looking the part then preparation is all important, so before you get dressed into your suit, always give it a quick check.

Trouser length

The trouser length works in a similar fashion to that of your sleeve in the sens that it can really dictate how well your outfit looks. The ideal length can generally be measured by looking at the break of the trouser, which is the degree to which the trouser rests on your shoes. There are 3 varying lengths (no break, half break and full break) that are often being taken in account.

Trousers with “no break” are those that come to the ankles and barely touch the shoes. Now while once upon a time these might have been simply considered as being short, there has been a growing trend for trousers with no break in recent years. This style can be worn with regular socks or even sports socks for a bolder look which leaves the ankles bare,

The “half break” length is the safe option and the most widely preferred choice of length. It allows the trousers to rest comfortably on the shoe and tends to create a slight crease at the ankle. If you aren’t certain about trouser length or you prefer to dress conservatively then we’d certainly recommend opting for a half break.

Finally, the “full break” allows for the trousers to sit well on the shoes, in many cases covering a large part of the laces. The full break length is best left to be worn by taller gentleman or those with long legs as the gathering up of the material on the shoes can help to give a perception of them having shorter legs.

Opting for trousers which are longer than a full break or shorter than a no break will certainly classify them as being misfitting.

Mismatching your leathers

Wearing the appropriate coloured shoes and belt with your suit is crucial and can often make for a simple way of perfecting your look. Getting this wrong however is a faux pas which will undoubtedly stick out like a sore thumb. Don’t worry too much about getting the shades exactly the same, just ensure a black belt is teamed up with black shoes and a brown belt is teamed up with brown shoes.

If you want to be really particular about it you can also match the leather starp on your watch to that of your belt and shoes.

Final words

Having ticked off some of the most commonly made mistakes, you should now know if you yourself have fallen foul of them. Thankfully they’re all things that can be easily rectified so you can get back to looking your very best.

Abbas Mahmood
Abbas Mahmood
As a lifelong purveyor of fashion, Abbas has been writing for Hemingway Tailors for 2 years, keeping readers up to date with style trends and delivering a regular insight into the world of tailoring.
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