The tailored solution for men of all sizes

21 April 2017
The tailored solution for men of all sizes
If you’re reading this then chances are you’re either curious to find out how a suit should fit, or you might struggle to find a suit that fits in a way which is flattering on your body. Thankfully, in the world of tailored suits there isn’t a body type that a suit can’t look great on, sometimes it’s just a matter of knowing what to look for.
Below you’ll find a few common issues many men find with the way their suit fits and how a tailored suit can overcome these.

Suit fit for tall, slim men

If you’re tall and have long limbs, then chances are you’ve come across a few off the rack suits which drown you and result in you losing any shape your body might have. Along with this, many of these suits often fail to fit appropriately in terms of their length – most often forcing you to but a size too large to fit your arms and legs or settle with them falling too short.
To avoid looking like a sack, a tailored suit can be created to allow just the adequate amount of space around your arms and legs while also providing a slight nip along the body to give your suit a little more shape. Since tailored suits are made in accordance to your body, the length of the arms is also a problem you needn’t worry about. The general rule remains that 1-2cm of your shirt’s cuff should show from under your jacket sleeve, so the sleeve of your jacket will want to sit around your wrist bone.

Suit fit for broad shoulders

With a large onus being placed on slim fitting ready-made suits, being broad can make life difficult, especially if you aren’t looking to recreate the garish body hugging looks some men opt for these days.
The shoulders are one of the most important elements when it comes to the fit of your suit and can easily make or break your look. They’re also one of the key distinguishing factors in identifying whether a suit is well tailored or an off the rack alternative. The seam on your jacket shoulder should sit right on top of where your arm meets your body. Any wider and you’ll see the sleeves slacking, while if it’s any tighter you’ll notice it’ll cause creases along the front of the jacket.
Another style tip for broader men is to steer clear of jackets with narrow lapels. These can often ruin the proportions of the suit and make you look even broader because of the relative size of the lapel and the amount of space which is left between the lapel and the end of the shoulder.

Suit fit for large midriffs

While some of our male counterparts might remain in good shape and preserve their figure, the same can’t be said for all of us. Those with expanding midriffs can often make the mistake of trying to hide it by wearing oversized clothing. However this is the last thing you want to do as it can often leave you looking much larger than you actually are.
The best solution to feeling comfortable and looking good in your suit is having it fitted appropriately while also finding the best fabric to flatter your body. For instance, black is well known to be a slimming colour so opting for a darker coloured suit and shirt combinations could serve you well.
When it comes to the pattern of your suit or even shirt, there’s a great deal of scepticism about how effective stripes are in achieving a slimming look. Some feel contrasting vertical striped can help provide a slimming effect, while other claim their research supports horizontal strips being more effective. Either way it could be something worth considering, but the final decision will ultimately rest with you, and you should keep in mind that looking good often stems from feeling good – so stick to what you’re comfortable wearing.
To better understand if a suit fits you well around your body, test it by standing upright and closing the button(s). The front of the jacket should flow down your body allowing enough room to place your flat palm within it. It you find the lapels flaring out then chances are it’s too tight, and if you can fit your whole fist in with ease then it most likely too large.

A final note

The issues addressed above are only some of the problems men face. There are a whole host of other outfits problems that arise on a regular basis but the beauty of having a tailored suit made for you is that it will eradicate many of them. Get suits and shirts that fit in a manner which flatter your figure and you’ll not only look sharp but also feel great too.
 
Abbas Mahmood
Abbas Mahmood
As a lifelong purveyor of fashion, Abbas has been writing for Hemingway Tailors for 2 years, keeping readers up to date with style trends and delivering a regular insight into the world of tailoring.
Sign Up
Exclusive offers, news & updates from Hemingway Tailors
First name:
Last name:
Email:
Instagram