Seven rules of suit wearing

01 October 2015
Seven rules of suit wearing

Hemingway Tailors don’t manufacture suits – we craft them. Our tailors know how to create a suit that will not only meet your requirements but surpass them, taking into account your posture, your body shape and even your gait. Our tailored suits are built to your precise specification, with hundreds of different linings and fabrics to choose from, in addition to many other design decisions that need to be made. We’ll create the suit of your dreams – but once we’ve created it for you, it’s up to you how you wear it. You can break these suit-wearing rules if you like, but remember that they’re in place for a reason. Hemingway Tailors present seven rules of suit wearing – break them at your peril…

#1: The belt must match the shoes

One of the first rules of suit wearing, we’re always told to match the colour of the shoes with the colour of your belt. A colour mismatch is a definite faux pas at a formal occasion, but you might just get away with a brighter coloured belt for a more casual occasion.

#2: Leave the last button undone

This is one rule that all tailors agree on – whether your suit has two or three buttons, you should always leave the last one unbuttoned. These days, suits are designed to be worn with the last button open. Doing up the final button is likely to be unflattering and is likely to make your perfectly fitted suit seem too tight.

#3: Unbutton when sitting

For regular suit-wearers, this rule is more of a reflex, but if you’re new to the world of suits (or at least anything other than off-the-rack suits) it’s an important rule to learn. Keeping the suit buttoned up when you’re sat down creates stresses on the fabric in places and directions that it’s not built to withstand.

#4: Eliminate the collar gap

One sign of an ill-fitting suit is where there’s a gap between the edge of the collar and the suit’s lapels. Of course, no-one except the biggest suit snobs are likely to notice a tiny collar gap, but now you’ve read this article, you will – and you’ll notice how it detracts from your look.

#5: Tie clip between 3rd and 4th shirt buttons

Tie clips aren’t difficult to place correctly, but that doesn’t stop many men from getting it wrong. Place them on the tie between the third and fourth buttons on your shirt – and ensure your tie clip is no wider than your tie.

#6: Don’t over accessorise

Go ahead, wear a colourful, patterned pocket square and a tie clip – but don’t wear flashy cufflinks too. Let your suit speak for itself – don’t drown it in accessories.

#7: Fit is everything

Most of us can spot an ill-fitting suit from a mile off. The giveaway signs are usually around the shoulders and lapels. If you want your suit to make the right impression, it’s worth investing in a tailored or made-to-measure suit. Not only will it look far better than an off-the-rack garment, it’ll last longer too. Book an appointment with one of our tailors today to start building the perfect tailored suit for you. 

Abbas Mahmood
Abbas Mahmood
As a lifelong purveyor of fashion, Abbas has been writing for Hemingway Tailors for 2 years, keeping readers up to date with style trends and delivering a regular insight into the world of tailoring.
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