Four classic men’s coat styles and how to wear them

11 December 2014

Made-to-measure coats provide the wearer with a superior fit that makes the coat a pleasure to wear. In a similar manner to every other garment, coats have evolved over time in response to changing technology, fashion trends and other consumer preferences. Over the past century, several men’s coat styles have established themselves as classic designs. In this article, we’re going to examine some of these classic coat styles, and how you should wear them.

Duffle coats

Duffle coats are heavy coats made from a thick, coarse material, known for their distinctive front toggle fastenings. They have a roomy cut, but their length can vary significantly. Famous duffle coat wearers included Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery, and of course, Paddington Bear. Duffle coats can be casual or semi-formal, depending upon the colour and length, and are perfect for protecting the wearer against the elements. Dark coloured duffle coats may be suitable for business wear, paired with your standard tailored suit and shoes. However, most duffle coats should be worn with more casual clothes. There should be plenty of room under a duffle coat for heavy knitwear and multiple layers of clothing.

Peacoats

Peacoats are double-breasted coats with several rows of buttons. Traditionally, peacoats are made out of 100% wool, navy fabric and tend to be slightly longer than standard jacket length, but shorter than trenchcoats and overcoats. Today, the traditional peacoat design comes in many different forms and colours. Perhaps the classic peacoat look is when paired with a knitted rollneck, but most peacoats will work with almost any other garments you can imagine. Easy to dress up and dress down, the peacoat is perhaps the most versatile coat on this list.

Trench coats

Trench coats have been wardrobe staples for over fifty years. These knee-length garments are known for their epaulettes, sleeve straps, belt and shoulder flap. They’re a relatively lightweight type of coat, suited to chilly autumn and spring days rather than the deepest depths of winter. Trench coats are cut to have extra room in the shoulders so that a suit or military uniform may be worn comfortably underneath. It’s suitable for both business and casual occasions.

Overcoats

Overcoats are long, heavy coats designed to see the wearer through the worst of the winter weather. They’re not common these days – many men prefer to stick with a peacoat and a trench coat instead of using a third coat. These coats are usually cut with plenty of space around the shoulders, allowing you to add many more layers of winter clothing. Given the size and weight of overcoats, it is certainly worth considering a made-to-measure or bespoke overcoat – or else the fit will be far from flattering.

With several months of winter still ahead, there’s just about time to book an appointment with Hemingway Tailors to kickstart the coat tailoring process – and still have time to show off your new bespoke coat this winter.

Instagram